"Dress Categories: 3 Basic Foundations, Princess-line, Panel, Empire, Tent"

Dress categories- design analysis, make pattern plot, and develop the 3 basic foundations, the princess, the panel, the empire, and the tent foundations are all featured in this segment of our studies.

Dresses are grouped into two major categories,- those with a waistline seam (combining a bodice with a skirt), and those without a waistline seam. Dresses designed without a waistline seam are based in the torso foundation pattern.

The following three basic dress foundations are: Sheath or fitted, shift or semi-fitted, and straightline or box silhouettes, can be developed with either straight or A-line effect below the waist and hip.

(enter fig 1, 2, 3 here):

Including in our studies of these segment, you will learn also how to lay and cut, sewing and constructions to finish garment.

To use these foundation patterns for design variations, add and extend for length parallel with hip level.Let's say, for A-line hems, add approximately one to two inches on both side seams, and connect to outermost part of the hipline and blend with the hemline.

The Sheath (fitted silhouette). Both darts of the front and back torso patterns are marked for stitching.

(insert pattern plot guide for sheath dress foundation).

The Shift (semi-fitted silhouette). Only one on both waist dart is marked for stiching and the other both side dart is left unmarked with (broken lines) to ease around the waistline.

(insert pattern plot guide for semi-fitted dress foundation).

The Straightline (box-fiited silhouette). Both waist darts are unmarked with (broken lines) and unstitched as ease around the waistline.

(insert pattern plot guide for straightline dress foundation).

MODIFYING THE TORSO PATTERN FOR A BOX FIT:

* Increase the side dart intake by measuring down 1/4 inch on the lower dart leg and connecting to dart point as shown. Lower the back armhole by 1/4 inch, blending back armhole. This shortens the side-seam length, holding the garments away from the figure for the box-fit effect.

This deos not effect the hipline placement on the figure since the shorter length represents the true length when garment deos not follow contour of the figure. (Brokenlines indicate original pattern shape.)

* Measure out 1/2 inch at waistline and blend for new side seam.

*Before cutting pattern from paper, true dart legs and blend with side seam. After cutting, true front and back side seams (up from hip level), adjusting back armhole if needed.

THE PRINCESS-LINE FOUNDATION:

The princess-line foundation is usued to develop all designs with similar styline features.

PATTERN PLOT AND DEVELOPMENT