"Patternmaking Tutorials: Dolman Sleeves Tunic Blouse and Skirt"

TWO-MINUTE patternmaking lesson - only Free Dressmaking Tutorials can offer that. This site offers a frame by frame graphic and video demonstration in patternmaking. At the end of the lesson, you will be able to complete the pattern of a dolman short sleeves tunic blouse from scratch.

This simple and basic style was choosen to be your first pattern drafting excercise, and hopefully everyone out there can follow easily by using the full body personalized measurement chart.

This concept style was converted into or equivalent to size 6 in ready to wear (RTW) specs.

Give me again your next TWO MINUTES to draft and complete the skirt pattern, frame by frame steps, in grahics or in video, for easy learning. Complete the 2 piece set with this straight,knee length, with elastic waist skirt. The foundation is a separate skirt from the blouse. It will be draft with shearring allowance for the waist elastic all around, that simplifies the manipulating process of the skirt style. I strongly recommend that you practice this patternmaking excercise as much as you could, so that you can get used to it sooner not later.

Preparations:

1. You need the following tools on hand:
   • 18x30 pattern paper (blouse)
   • 12x25 pattern paper (skirt)
   • Paper shears (if available)
   • Pair of tailor's square, and curve ruler
   • Pencil, or marker
   • Tape measure
Tools you need

Basic Tools to start patternmaking!
2. Order and design forms: (Printable or download)
   • Order ID #: (001) My first dressmaking pattern drafting.
   • Style: Basic dolman short sleeves blouse, sabrina neckline, with sash, and an elastic waist knee length straight skirt.
   • Fabric: 50/50 polycotton stripes or solids, or any fabric of your choice.
   • Colours: Blue, yellow, black, and green.
   • Thread: Poly/astra thread.
   (click to download or print order and design forms.)

blk#6:

-gfx design or sewby, fabrics and thread.

3. Personalized Body Full Measurements Forms:
   1. Blouse:
      Bustline= 36"; waistline=26"; hipline=37";length of blouse= 27"; neckline across=14"; lenght of sleeves=16"; sleeves opening=9; front figure=17"
   2. Skirt:
      waist= 25"; hipline=37"; bottom hem=36"; lenght of skirt=20".
      
      
   (Printable or Download Full Body Measurement Forms)
Notes:
• The measurements of this first project is equivalent to a size 6 in ready to wear market(RTW).
• Because the blouse style is pull over, the finish measurements will be:
  
  bustline = 41"; waistline = 41"; hipline = 42"; sleeve length = 16; and the length of blouse = 27"
  
  
• The skirt finish measurements after sewing:
  
  Waistline = 25"; hipline = 38"; bottom hem = 36"; length of skirt = 20"
  
  
• The uniqueness of this one piece pattern was to save time in pattern drafting, cutting, sewing constructions.
4. Sewing Details:Blouse seam allowances:
   
   • Shoulder, sides, sleeves and bottom hem opening = 1/2"
   • Top stitching: neckline opening, sleeves opening, and bottom hem = 3/8"
   Skirt seam allowances:
   
   • Side seams and bottom hem = 1/2"
   • Top stitching on bottom hem = 3/8"
   • Double fold on the waist elastic with 1" top stitches.
blk#10:

-gfx of sewing details of blouse and skirt.

5. Patternmaking Tutorial of a (Dolman Short Sleeves Tunic Blouse)

   • Lay pattern paper on top of cutting table, at the right bottom corner, locate (A), and mark as the STARTING POINT.
     
     Step 1
   • Use the tape measure. From (A), measure 17" and mark as (B), this is the measurement from shoulder seam to waistline.
     
     Step 2
   • From (A) again, measure 28" and mark as (C), and this will be the length of blouse.
     
     Step 3
   • From (A), (use the tailor's square) square up 7" and mark as (D). The neckline opening.
     
     Step 4
   • From point (B), square up 10 1/2" and mark as (E). This is the waistline measurement.
     
     Step 5
   • From (C), square up 11" and mark as (F). The hipline measurement.
     
     Step 6
   • From point (B), use as a pivot to point (D). Draw shoulder slope line, and measure 9 1/2" and mark (G) as sleeve length measurement.
     
     Step 7
   • From (G), square down and draw line. Measure 9" and mark as (H). The sleeve opening.
     
     Step 8
   • Draw line connecting (F to E), and use curve ruler to connect point (H). The under arm sleeve.
     
     Step 9
   • Write instruction label like (order #001,cut 2self or cut (1) front,(1) back, each). Locate notches at point (E and D).
     
     Step 10
   • Cut pattern 1" outside lines for now.
     
     Step 11

6. Patternmaking Tutorials of a (Knee Length Straight Skirt with elastic waistline).

   • Lay pattern on top of the cutting table, at the right bottom corner, locate (A), and mark as the STARTING POINT.
     
     Skirt: Step 1
   • From (A), measure 1" and mark as (B), as the waist fold seam allowance.
     
     Skirt: Step 2
   • From (B), measure 8" and mark as (C). This will be the Hipline depth.
     
     Skirt: Step 3
   • From (B), measure 21" and mark as (D). This will be the Length of skirt.
     
     Skirt: Step 4
   • From (A), square up to 21 halves scale and mark as (E), for elastic allowance.
     
     Skirt: Step 5
   • From (B), drawline and mark (F) for waistline notch placement.
     
     Skirt: Step 6
   • From (C), square up to 20 halves scale and mark as (G), the hipline and notch placement.
     
     Skirt: Step 7
   • From (D), square up to 18 halves scale and mark as and(H), the bottom hem opening.
     
     Skirt: Step 8
   • Drawline from point E ,F, G, and H respectively. Mark and complete the label, including (order #; style #; cut pieces; and center fold mark).
     
     Skirt: Step 9